A good pie starts at the apple bin, not at the oven. Some apples turn to sauce after 40 minutes at 375 degrees, while others keep their slices and give you that clean bite under the crust. After years of pressing cider and selling fruit at our mill in Salem, Michigan, these are the varieties customers ask about most when pie season arrives.

Apples that hold their shape

Northern Spy is the classic Michigan pie apple. It is firm, tart and a little sweet, and it bakes up juicy without falling apart. It ripens late, so look for it in mid to late October. We have baked Northern Spy pie at the mill for years, and it is one of the treats people drive out for.

Jonathan and Cortland are good partners. Jonathan adds a sharp, spicy edge. Cortland has white flesh that browns slowly when sliced, which helps if you are peeling a big batch before assembling the pie.

Empire and Ida Red are middle-of-the-road bakers. They stay in slices and bring more sweetness, so they balance a tart apple well.

Apples to use with care

Honeycrisp is wonderful for eating and holds its shape, but it is mild and can taste flat when baked alone. Pair it with a tart apple. Golden Delicious is sweet and soft, so use it as a minor part of the mix. Red Delicious is best left for lunch boxes. It turns mealy in the oven.

The two-variety rule

Use at least two kinds of apple. A good starting split is two thirds firm and tart (Northern Spy, Jonathan or Cortland) and one third sweeter (Empire, Ida Red or Honeycrisp). The firm apples give structure and the sweet ones give flavor, and you end up needing less sugar.

How many apples you need

A 9-inch deep-dish pie takes about 2 1/2 to 3 pounds of apples, which is roughly 6 to 8 medium fruit. A half-peck bag from the store, which holds around 5 pounds, covers one pie with a few apples left to snack on.

Quick baking notes

• Slice about 1/4 inch thick. Thinner slices cook to mush before the crust browns.
• Toss the slices with sugar and let them sit 20 minutes, then drain off the extra juice and reduce it in a pan before pouring it back in. This keeps the bottom crust from going soggy.
• Bake at 425 degrees for the first 20 minutes, then drop to 375 until the juices bubble through the vents, usually another 40 to 50 minutes.
• Cool the pie for at least two hours so the filling sets.

Check what is on the shelf

Varieties change week by week as the harvest moves along. Our Apples In Season page lists what we have each weekend, and the Visiting the Orchard guide covers hours and u-pick details before you make the drive. If you would rather skip the baking, the mill sells pies and other treats on fall weekends.